Tuesday, April 10, 2007

monday monday

Monday was another slow day. I hung out at home, reading and watching TV until about 2:30, when I left to meet Whitney in the city to register for classes. The whole weekend the city has been so empty because everyone goes home (to outer parts of Kenya) for the holiday. It is totally bizarre seeing the streets like this, and being able to ride in a matatu that is almost constantly moving. Registering took over an hour because the internet is so unreliable and computers are slow, etc. But, I am registered for four classes, even though registering does not guarantee me a spot in any of them, so I am not sure why it is so necessary to do this, especially while abroad : )
After being fully frustrated, we went to Java House where Whitney got an amazing sundae, which I helped her eat. Then it started to pour. The rain was only getting harder, so I decided to go catch the matatu home. As I got off the matatu, the sun came out in one corner of the sky and I looked all around for a rainbow, but I didn’t see one anywhere. Then, as I turned the corner onto my street, there it was; a big band of colors cutting across the sky. It looked like if I kept walking all the way down that road, I would eventually come to it. I always see rainbows as a sign of something good. When I got home, Monica’s cousin was there. I told them about the rainbow and she said, laughing, that when it is raining and the sun is out, that means a hyena is having a baby in the river. I told her I would keep my eyes out for hyenas.
I talked to Sarah Sterling briefly online today and she asked me if I liked Nairobi. I told her that I don’t know if I “like” it or if I ever will “like” it, but it is definitely becoming a lot more comfortable being here, as I know my surroundings a little better, and I’ve put some things on my walls in my room, etc. I talked to Whitney today at Java House about how it seems like, even if we get used to being here, we will always be seen as outsiders because we are white. Every single day I have people on the streets saying “Mzungu!, Karibu Kenya!” : “White person! Welcome to Kenya!.” This is often followed by an offer for a safari or to come see their shop to buy souvenirs. So, even as I get used to being here, I feel like I will never be seen as someone who belongs here, or is living here for more than a week or two. It’s a very frustrating and exhausting feeling, and one that is hard to express in words. I don’t know if words could have ever prepared me for this experience, because I think a lot of them would have been brushed off or not fully believed. There is no way to ever know how it feels unless you are in it every day. I cannot leave my house without being glared at, called out to, followed by somebody, or offered something in exchange for money. I am constantly wishing my skin could be just one shade darker, or that I could at least be male, so I could blend in on some level. As challenging as it is, I know it will be helpful in the future, and somehow I will be glad to have experienced it.

3 comments:

  1. This experience will only make you a stronger and more sympathetic and understanding person. It is frustrating to not be able to "just fit in" when you so desperately want to. From what I can tell you are doing all you can to immerse yourself and stay safe at the same time. Frankly I think it would take years and years (if ever) to become integrated into the society and culture there. Enjoy and learn from the limited time you have there. This is an experience you are likely never to have again and it is one you will carry with you forever.

    I'm proud of how you are handling yourself. I don't think there is anything you could be doing differently.

    Enjoy (don't be scared) the camel safari. Wish I could be ther. Take lots of pictures!

    Love and thinking of you every day,

    Dad

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  2. it's not necessary! the benefits of not being contactable via email are many and grand. Just forget about that place!

    I'm still glad for you that you ended up in Kenya rather than SA, even though you hated me for the suggestion at the time. I knew it'd be much more adventurous and challenging.

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  3. Sarah,
    I love reading your blog. You are an excellent writer and I enjoy the observations you choose to share. I am not surprised you feel the way you do about fitting in. I thought you were extrmely brave to go on this adventure in the first place. Even if you underestimated how unsettling it would be, I still think you did it because you knew that you were the kind of strong person who could not only deal with it but learn from it. You should feel proud of yourself! I agree with your Dad, you are doing everything right.
    My latest adventure? Swimming with dolphins in the Bahamas. OK, not as scary as fighting off swarming mobs to get on a bus, but damn cool anyway. Stay well! Love, Aunt Jan

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